wave riding
Riding a wave is like no other experience in the world. ... As you dive under the wave, the icy water rushes down your spine and when you take a breath you know you have made it. ... A perfect wave comes out from sea. ... The wave is calling, “Take Me, Take Me. ... You begin paddling as hard as you can to catch that wave. ... The wave comes closer and BAM! ... The wave has you in its grasp and you just have to go with the flow. ... Then you feel the speed of the wave pushing you. ... You pop up and you feel the ocean pushing you along the wave. ... You really want to make this wave a wonderful ride.