First Time Surfing
...oy with a short fuse and short attention span learning a complicated sport such as surfing wasn’t exactly painless. First time getting out to the waves was difficult enough, never the less catching a wave and getting up on the board. My first wave I had ever attempted to ride was nothing short of a mouth full of brine and an equilibrium that was nothing but baffled. As I paddle with the wave to keep up I made my attempt to stand, when my torso could not even raise enough to bring my knees forward. After what I seemed to think was such a drastic event, I was ready to quit the sport that I had admired since I was a little boy. All though this first day was crammed with irritation it did have its positive sides. I had gotten over my angers and finally gone back out. I spent a couple more times making my attempts to stand on this board by the end of the day. When I finally did get up on the board it was like driving for the first time and having that freedom you’ve wanted for so long. To most, the sport looks easy and they think it is simple to get up. What most don’t understand that surfing is not like any other sport, your standing on a board trying to keep your balance on an uncontrollable wave. Surfing is not an easy sport to learn never the less master. No one person will ever fully know everything about the waves, the swells or the breaks. F...